It’s a funny thing about living in a state with so many things to experience. Sometimes it takes decades to explore a town you grew up hearing about. For me, Chama has always been a place my mother would reminisce about, where after high school she and her then-boyfriend spent a year working construction and waiting tables. It was the ’70s and she was in love. The kind of young love that can survive in a tiny cabin in the snow. So growing up, I always imagined Chama as a romantic spot on the map between us and Colorado. I imagined it through my mother’s eighteen-year-old eyes. 

I don’t think too much has changed since then in the sleepy mountain town. Even in summer, Chama stays quiet except for the sound of the train. This year, I chose it for the annual family getaway where I take my extended kiddos to explore a part of New Mexico we’ve never visited. It was rainy and cool, a reprieve from the soaring temperatures around Albuquerque. The porch of our Airbnb looked out onto the Cumbres & Toltec Scenic Railroad, and the locomotive smoke and storm clouds gave the scenery just the dusky, romantic vibe I was hoping for. At the same time, the kids and I could easily walk to the main drag for shopping, sightseeing, coffee, and dining. 

From May into October, the railroad is the heart of Chama. The sight of historic narrow-gauge train tracks and parked locomotives immediately set the tone for our visit. My youngest is fascinated by trains, and even though we weren’t able to ride the historic Cumbres & Toltec, she was delighted by its daily embarkation. Exploring the train station and rail yard was a highlight of a weekend where immersing ourselves in nature and history were top priorities alongside finding the best places to stuff our faces.

We arrived in time for lunch on Friday, which with two teenagers and a six-year-old in tow was not an easy task. But the three-hour drive from Albuquerque is so breathtaking that it even held the attention of my youthful passengers. The climb north affords a glimpse of all of New Mexico’s best features: red, orange, and black rock formations, a flowing Rio Grande, late summer wild flowers, gigantic monsoon clouds, and the green valleys and forests of the Rockies.

I had scoped out Patsy’s for our first vacay meal at the recommendation of my friends at Dulce Base Tipi, who had recently posted rave reviews of the green chile cheeseburgers—which did not disappoint. Opened in 1991 by Patsy Lucero, the diner has been helmed by Patsy’s daughter Barbara Samora, along with Barbara’s husband, Antonio Samora, since 2001. Barbara told us her favorite dish is the green chile stew, and she and Antonio were seated having their lunch when we arrived, which made it feel more like going to a relative’s house than a restaurant. A true mom and pop, Patsy’s is closed Saturday and Sunday and is cash only.  

After pigging out on the green chile smothering our stuffed sopapilla and filling our burgers (we always share), we decided to walk it off a little and go shopping along Terrace Ave, the main street through town. There are only a handful of shops and galleries here, but what Chama lacks in retail therapy, it makes up for with pure charm. If the steam engines offer a peek into turn-of-the-century New Mexico, the cute old buildings and towering mountains only add to the feeling of stepping into the past. Naturally, the town leans into the theme of trains, but in the years since my mother’s young-love-in-a-winter-cabin, Chama has managed to preserve the feel of a small Western town that once had a thriving economy centered in mining, sawmills, and ranching. 

Wanting to soak up every ounce of the old-timey architecture, we decided on dinner at the recently restored Iron Rail Inn. Originally crew lodging for the Denver and Rio Grande Western, this historic inn is beautifully preserved with wooden floors, a saloon-style bar serving craft cocktails and draft beer, and a little mercantile. On the upper floor is a community room with a pool table, some taxidermied wildlife, and a balcony with an elevated view of the rail yard that also overlooks the patio dining area where they put a yummy little spin on classics like red chile enchiladas, ravioli, and chicken sandwiches. With special touches like crisp fresh spinach, blue corn tortillas, and fresh goat cheese crumbled atop the enchiladas, our dinner was not only picturesque but delicious, and a beautiful location to celebrate a night out with my favorite humans.

The next day we were met with one big rain shower that settled the dust and even prompted us to pull out our sweaters as we embarked on a drive around the mountains and a visit to Tierra Wools, a local landmark since the ’80s. Tierra Wools works to preserve the weaving traditions of northern New Mexico “from hoof to loom,” using local wool from sheep pastured in the area. In addition to shopping for fiber arts supplies, wool rugs, and weavings, visitors can learn more about the processes and history underpinning this art form, as well as the artists, tools and dyes, and animal stewardship that keep it alive.

Returning from our drive, we braved the rain for a light lunch at the Rio Chama Espresso Kitchen & Wine Bar, which local gal Alayna Alariana opened in 2019. The tall wood building housed a stained-glass gallery, a post office, and a mechanic shop before being completely renovated into the café it is today. With a nuevo-rustic feel and large outdoor patio with fire pit, it is one of the coziest places in town. Their daily menu offers breakfast and lunch items like the sunrise sandwich (egg, bacon, pepper jack, and green chile on ciabatta), as well as fruit smoothies, coffees, and wine. Fridays and Saturdays, they offer a comfort-forward dinner menu with weekly specials like housemade lasagna, which we didn’t have a chance to try on this visit.

We rounded out the day with a riveting game of rummy, a nap, and dinner at the newly reopened Local diner, where we enjoyed live Saturday-night music with a band playing country and rock classics. I had the catfish while the kids chowed down on another round of green chile cheeseburgers, a staple even in the state’s northernmost town. After comparing notes, it was decided that Chama’s putting in the correct order to Hatch to infuse their green chile scene, providing both flavor and heat. While we didn’t have a single bad meal anywhere, it was the green chile that stood out everywhere we went.

Breakfast and lunch:
Rio Chama Espresso Kitchen & Wine Bar | 614 Terrace Ave, 575-315-0001

Lunch:
Patsy’s | 1810 NM 17, 575-756-2108

Lunch and dinner:
Iron Rail Inn | 501 Terrace Ave, 575-537‑1501 

Dinner:
Local | 587 Terrace Ave, 575-756-1661