From winter wonderland to Mad Max bleak, New Mexico winters can throw just about anything your way. Road conditions are always iffy: You can be snowed in, have your driveway turned into a mud bog, or find a tree limb crashed down after a powerful windstorm. In any event, you’ll be glad to have stocked up on wine “just in case.”

For this edition of Weather Wine Pairings, I focused on varietals made from less familiar grapes. We all fall prey to buying the tried and true, but that can lead to cellar palate—where you’re so familiar with a region, winery, or style that you stop being able to really, truly taste it—or plain old boredom. On the other hand, trying something new is a gamble that can, on occasion, not pay off. It’s stressful, I know. Hopefully my suggestions can ease that anxiety and allow you to explore with confidence.

Gruet Winery
New Mexico Sparkling Pinot Meunier Rosé

Of the Land of Enchantment’s many magical natural wonders, one of the most special is big, fluffy snow. My favorite winter days are the ones when billowy snowflakes fall lightly from the sky, making the surrounding world soft and silent. I find myself speaking in a whisper, compelled to be still and witness the world from within a fragile snow globe. Such occasions call for a wine that captures the essence of delicate beauty. I recommend Gruet Winery’s New Mexico Sparkling Pinot Meunier Rosé. Pinot meunier has long been included in champagnes, but it has typically been the grape in the background, meant to support the more predominant chardonnay and pinot noir. When the Gruet family started their winery in New Mexico, they wanted to employ the traditional methods used for generations in their homeland of Champagne, France, but they also wanted to embrace the land and spirit of where they now were. With native New Mexican Carrie Gurule now at the helm, the winery seems to be returning to that original idea; this Pinot Meunier Rosé bubbly is a great example. Grown in partnership with Santa Ana Pueblo, the pinot meunier grapes used to craft this sparkler lend it notes of raspberry, white pepper, and a hint of lime zest. On the palate, it has delicate bubbles and great acidity, with just enough tannin to give a little structure to the wine. It is absolutely delightful and is my new favorite bubbly!

📍Albuquerque Tasting Room, 8400 Pan American Fwy NE, 505-821-0055
📍Santa Fe Tasting Room, 210 Don Gaspar (inside Hotel St. Francis),
    505-989-9463

El Alamo Winery
Baco Noir Reserve

You know the drill: Lights go out, clocks start flashing, it starts getting cold fast, and you can’t remember if you actually bought more candles, or if you meant to and forgot . . . and if you did, where the hell did you put them? Nothing can be quite as frustrating as when the power goes out in a winter storm. If you are lucky, you have a fireplace and can stay warm; if not, you need every blanket in the house and a bold red wine to warm you up. Even if you do have a fire burning, you still might want a glass of that powerful red. My suggestion is the Baco Noir Reserve from El Alamo Winery. 

El Alamo takes its name from the giant old cottonwood tree that grows in the yard of the little winery. Located in Alcalde, this hidden gem is available for tastings by appointment only. Joseph Martinez, the winemaker and owner, is passionate about his craft and incredibly generous with his time. He is also clearly a magician who can turn baco noir grapes into a wonderful wine. Baco noir is a hybrid grape that is disease resistant, cold hardy, and grows so vigorously that, to quote my friend and certified wine geek Tom Hill, it could sprout in the middle of a freeway, you could drive back and forth over it, and it would still grow well. Because of this characteristic, many home winemakers choose it, and because of New Mexico’s high elevation, many local professional grape growers choose it as well. Unfortunately, it can also result in revolting wines, which means that I am rarely eager to dive into a glass of a new baco noir. 

This is the exception. El Alamo’s 2022 Baco Noir Reserve is 100 percent baco and aged in bourbon barrels. It has an herbal tea aspect on the nose with bright red berry and plum notes. On the palate, it shows balance (a difficult task when dealing with baco’s intense acidity levels) and finesse. This is a bold wine full of character and charm, one that has the power to keep you warm on those dark winter nights.

📍127 County Rd 41, Alcalde, 505-920-6516

Sheehan Winery
List of Merlots

Google’s forecast for 310 sunny days a year in New Mexico sounds idyllic, but those of us who live here know that the horrific winds may strike at any moment. In the thick of winter, those icy winds cut right through your sweater down to the bone, making you swear to never attempt such a silly idea as leaving the house again. Once ensconced in the cozy comfort of your home, you need a great big glass of feel-good wine—something soothing, delicious, and fulfilling. Look no further than Sheehan Winery’s list of merlots! 

Before you quote the famous anti-merlot line from Sideways, know that ever since the film’s tidal wave of hate hit the all-too-well-known grape, many growers have quietly returned to nurturing rather than overproducing their merlot vines. The time is now ripe to reintroduce you to the grape you no doubt thought you knew. Among the many fabulous merlots being produced in New Mexico (and I recommend you try them all) are Sean Sheehan’s. This Albuquerque winemaker actually has FIVE merlots on his list! They represent not only multiple vintages but vineyards from Las Cruces to Corrales.

You can really capture the essence of this grape as you compare, say, the 2018 El Legado Vineyard Merlot—bright, light, and herbal—to the 2019 Elyce Vineyard Merlot, which is dense, spicy, and earthy. Sheehan has crafted each merlot to showcase place and reflect the seasonal changes that give each vintage a unique flare.

(By the way, the wine Miles covets during the entire movie Sideways, and finally drinks from a Styrofoam cup at a fast-food place, IS A MERLOT!)

📍Tasting Room, 303 Romero, Ste 110, Albuquerque, 505-508-1221

Mystic Ambrosia
Arcane Mantra Mead

Snow day! The two happiest words you could hear as a kid still spark instant joy when you hear them as an adult. That said, work being called off is rare. We adults have responsibilities that usually keep us from indulging in a surprise day at home. Instead, a bad snowstorm often means a stressful drive or having to juggle childcare when school is canceled. But sometimes you get to stay home, safe and warm, and play hooky watching your favorite movie and pouring a glass of wine. What do you pair with these once-in-a-blue-moon days? Hang onto your hats—it’s mead! 

To all you wine snobs who are about to discredit me for including mead in a wine pairing article, wait a second! The Mystic Ambrosia Arcane Mantra Mead is made with wildflower honey and wine from pinot noir grapes, it’s aged in French oak, and it’s dry! Mead is traditionally brewed from honey and sometimes flavored with fruit or spices, which means that, although sometimes called honey wine, it’s technically in its own category of fermented beverage. Most people associate mead with a sweet, uncomplicated drink, but Clint Sulis over at Mystic Ambrosia has crafted something so unique and artistic that you might not believe it’s mead. In the glass, you get notes of black cherry, orange peel, and violet, which continue onto the palate, finishing with a touch of spice. The little meadery, located in Santa Fe, offers tastings, tours, and classes by appointment.

📍Tasting Room, 2538 Camino Entrada, #203, Santa Fe, 505-310-9303