In the midst of winter, the mere thought of a hot, hearty breakfast can lure us out of a comfy bed and into the cold day, especially if we know that someone else will make it. From rich and spicy Mexican meals to the quintessential breakfast burrito to a sublime stack of pancakes, here are five delectable breakfast dishes served in iconic Santa Fe restaurants. Any one of them will give you a reason to rise and embrace the day.
Mighty Huevos Motuleños
“I first tasted a version of this at the now-defunct Nifty Cafe on Old Las Vegas Highway back in the eighties,” says Cafe Pasqual’s owner and chef Katharine Kagel, who opened her venerated restaurant in 1979. “This is a classic Mexican breakfast from the village of Motul. I made our version vegetarian friendly by eliminating the traditional ham ingredient. This hearty plate boasts a balanced combination of salty, picante, and sweet all at once.” The flavors linger long after your plate is clean.
📍 121 Don Gaspar, Santa Fe, 505-983-9340
Crave-Worthy Chilaquiles
That long-gone Nifty Cafe on Old Las Vegas Highway also occupied a former gas station, and employees famously wore T-shirts promising “Same Day Service.” In 1992, Harry Shapiro and his wife, Peyton Young, opened Harry’s Roadhouse in the Nifty Cafe’s erstwhile space, creating a dynamic dining destination that has endured for more than three decades. Harry’s menu roams the country—and world—with dishes inspired by the cuisines not only of the Southwest but of Vietnam, Mexico, Italy, and the American South, among other regions, and the place is famous for scrumptious pies, cookies, and other desserts that people drive for miles to eat.
Inviting breakfast choices include blue corn waffles and tres leches French toast. I like to order the chilaquiles. A standby for breakfast and brunch with regional variations throughout Mexico, chilaquiles are an ideal comfort food and the perfect way to use leftover corn tortillas and salsas. At Harry’s, fried tortilla wedges are slightly softened by tangy tomatillo salsa, topped with a combo of queso asadero and cotija, and served with eggs any style. I order mine over medium, so that, when broken, the sunny yolk slowly melds with the flavorful cheeses and salsa. The dish is served with black beans and a folded flour tortilla to scoop up the deliciousness.
📍 96 B Old Las Vegas Hwy, Santa Fe, 505-989-4629
Divine Cloud Cakes
“The recipe comes from my sister Mary’s restaurant, the Dream Cafe, in Dallas,” says chef and owner Murphy O’Brien. “The whipped whites and creamy ricotta are what make them special. No overmixing. Serve with real maple syrup, and cooking with clarified butter doesn’t hurt either. I’m not sure where the original recipe came from, but our family has been flipping these for over thirty-five years.” Try a stack, and you’ll likely flip for them too.
📍 624 Old Las Vegas Hwy, Santa Fe, 505-466-3886
An Unbeatable Breakfast Burrito
📍 210 W San Francisco, Santa Fe, 505-983-9880
Mouthwatering Mexican Shakshuka
Razatos credits a key ingredient for the dish’s success. “I know exactly what makes it taste so good, and that is the chipotle salsa,” he says. “We jar it and sell it, because we love it so much.” Pick up a jar while you’re there. Who knows, the salsa’s sensational smokiness just may inspire you to crawl out of a warm bed to create your own mouthwatering breakfast.
📍 3466 Zafarano, Santa Fe, 505-424-0755
Lynn Cline
Lynn Cline is the award-winning author of The Maverick Cookbook: Iconic Recipes and Tales From New Mexico. She’s written for Bon Appétit, the New York Times, New Mexico Magazine, and many other publications. She also hosts Cline’s Corner, a weekly talk show on public radio’s KSFR 101.1 FM.