Fall in New Mexico is a truly special time of year. Cottonwoods and aspens in higher elevations change their leaves to an electric gold color, the air feels crisp, and nights are chilly. But maybe the most obvious sign of the turning of the season is the smell of roasting green chile everywhere you go. While these things might conjure up various cravings for you, they always seem to turn my mind toward rich white wines. Maybe it is the fact that there is nothing more perfect than an opulent white paired with a green chile dish. Maybe it is the decadent feeling of alone time, now that the kids are back in school, that calls for a heady, complex glass. Or maybe it is the idea of curling up on the patio in your favorite cozy sweater, the fresh air bringing a rosy tint to your cheeks while a fabulous cold glass of golden wine emits a bouquet of ripe fruit, vanilla, and pie crust. 

What makes a white wine rich? Certain grapes lend themselves to it, such as chardonnay and chenin blanc. Then there is the ripening of the fruit: less ripe equals more acid, more ripe equals more round fruit flavors. Take those ripe grapes and put them through a malolactic fermentation, which tames the acid perception and adds a creaminess to the wine, then age it on the lees (the yeast hulls) to add texture, weight, and a nutty or bready aroma. Put that wine in oak to concentrate the aromas and flavors through micro-oxygenation while adding notes of sweet baking spices, and you get a full-bodied, richly layered white wine. Some wines are made using all three processes while others achieve richness and depth with only one or two; this is the artistry of the winemaker.

Some regions are known for this type of wine. The marsanne, roussanne, and viognier blends of the Rhone Valley in Southern France or the macabeo and turruntés blends of Spain’s Rioja region might spring to mind, but we have some stunning options right here in New Mexico. 

Milagro Vineyards & Winery
2022 Roussanne

Located in Corrales, Milagro has private vineyards and a quaint tasting room open select days (posted on their website and via their newsletter) or by appointment. They source all their grapes from their own vineyards and make really impressive wines. It is well worth the effort to book an afternoon to relax into their special little nook of the world and taste the rainbow of wines they produce. Their incredible Roussanne shows varietal character without the vegetal note I often get with this grape. Barrel fermented and aged sur lie, the wine has a rich floral character and a round palate feel. Ripe pear, lemon, and soft mineral notes make this wine linger with a haunting elegance. Pair with a warm, sunny October day watching the leaves fall to the ground—perhaps right from the front patio at The Farm Stand, where Milagro wines are served daily until 3, with tastings of current releases Friday and Saturday evenings. 

D.H. Lescombes
2022 Heritage Chardonnay

One of the founders of the modern New Mexico wine industry, the D.H. Lescombes family came to the Southwest from Burgundy, famed for its chardonnays, to plant vines in Deming in 1981. While they make many wines under a variety of labels, the D.H. Lescombes line is where you find their most elegant winemaking. Today the winery boasts two tasting rooms, one in Deming and one in Santa Fe, along with four bistros in Deming, Alamogordo, and Albuquerque, giving you the opportunity to try their wines almost anywhere in the state. Made with ripe fruit, the Chardonnay undergoes malolactic fermentation and is aged sur lie in French oak. I recommend serving this wine in a large, bowled glass to allow it to open up so you can savor its lovely citrus aromas—a hint of the great acidity that balances the wine’s full body. As the fall time change encourages us to cocoon early in the evening, this wine screams for my all-time favorite pairing, chardonnay with buttered popcorn and a great movie. 

La Vina Winery
2023 Viogner

The oldest continuously owned and operated winery in the state, La Vina is located in Anthony, forty minutes south of Las Cruces, near the Mexico border. Open 12–5, Thursday–Monday, they have expansive private vineyards and a great venue for events. They have many wines on their list and, unless you’re a true viognier fan, you would probably overlook this little gem on your initial read, but it is a perfect rich white wine. On the nose, La Vina’s Viognier shows ripe peach and orange creamsicle, with a hint of lemon that mingles with the smell of wet rocks. This wine presents a little bit sweet but finishes with a white pepper note that balances the fruit. It is 100 percent viognier, with no malolactic fermentation or oak aging, which demonstrates how a grape can bring the entire party to the glass all by itself. Pair with a cold overcast November day, curled up on your sofa and wrapped in a thick, warm blanket. 

Wines of the San Juan
Lavender Wine

Our northernmost winery in New Mexico, Wines of the San Juan, is located near Navajo Lake, epic petroglyphs, and world-class fly fishing, making it a natural mecca for the outdoorsperson. The winery is also known for its festivals. But it is their wines that keep people coming back year after year. I am not usually one for flavored wines, but this one is naturally infused with real lavender grown next door to the winery, not some weird extract. A dry white wine blend (usually of sauvignon blanc mixed with malvasia, muscat, and riesling or gewurztraminer) gives the wine a base of full fruit; when the lavender is added, it adds a richness that is earthy yet complex. The winemakers suggest that their lavender wine gives off an aroma of biscochitos, but I liken it to the combination of blooming field flowers and freshly turned garden dirt. It is a rejoiceful scent that any New Mexican with a fall garden harvest will revel in. I do recommend that you try this one with a biscochito, the kind made with lard and anise. 

Noisy Water Winery
2023 Forbidden Sparkling

Noisy Water Winery is located in Ruidoso but has tasting rooms in Albuquerque, Santa Fe, and Red River. They have an extensive list of wines in every style you can imagine, including a fantastic Double Barrel Chardonnay that takes oak aging to a perfect level: The tart fruit is balanced, and the barrels add depth and character without overwhelming the palate. But the surprise comes with their bubbly. For a lot of wine drinkers, bubbly wines don’t come to mind when thinking about full-bodied white varietals, but Noisy Water’s Forbidden Sparkling is made with chenin blanc grapes. Ripe pear and lemon notes give this wine a seductive character, with compact mousse from the carbonation process, and it finishes with a mineral hint. While rich, this wine is easy drinking and delicious. Pair the Forbidden Sparkling with the kind of snowy December day that can only happen in New Mexico, one where delicate falling snowflakes sparkle while the bright sun shines.