There is a little town nestled in the Sangre de Cristo mountains of northern New Mexico that transports you back to the Old West. Red River, once called River City by the prospectors that settled there, is all about the squeal-it-is-so-cute appearance. After the late nineteenth-century mining boom, homesteaders took over and started renting the vacated prospector cabins out to those in the neighboring lowlands who wanted to escape the heat. Today, rough-hewn wood buildings flank Main Street, flower baskets bursting with color hang everywhere, and the mountains spike up steeply on all sides. Wagon wheels and relics of the past decorate shop fronts and lodges while tall trees shade benches where you can take a seat and comfortably soak it all in.

Red River has something for everyone, from fishing to go-karts to a full disc golf course. There’s a brightly painted ice cream stand and a child’s delight of a candy store, gift shops galore, a couple of shops clearly catering to the biker crowd, many restaurants, and a solid handful of saloons. Being a wine professional on a weekend date with my husband, I opted for some romantic drinking spots. I was happy to see that this tiny town has two wineries, one on either end of the mile-long Main Street. Noisy Water’s tasting room, at the east end, is housed in an old cabin complete with a charming front porch. I had a glass of their Forbidden Sparkling, a crisp, zippy chenin blanc with notes of pear and citrus zest that made for an excellent toast to a night away. Seated at one of the tall tables opposite a fireplace overlooked by a large deer head anchored high up on the wall, I couldn’t help but imagine how incredible it must be to sip a glass of red wine here during the winter months.

Taking our tour to the west end of Main Street, we popped into Sheehan Winery’s tasting room. Tucked into the Alpine Lodge building, the large front patio features bar seating facing the street and a smattering of tables and chairs under a crisscross of strung lights. The bright yellow and blue bar seats, bedecked with hanging pots packed with beautiful flowers, conjured thoughts of European bistros. Inside, the tasting room is open and modern, with a square bar surrounded by chairs. I ordered a glass of cabernet franc, a wine that presents the varietal’s telltale notes of bell pepper along with ripe red berry and a pleasant, easy finish—a perfect red for those still-hot months of fall. Relaxing on the patio, we soon found ourselves trading recommendations with other tourists and residents that split their time between Red River and “home,” mostly Texas.

From Sheehan’s, we walked next door to Capo’s Italian restaurant for dinner. We had been told that we absolutely had to order the lasagna with meat marinara sauce. The story goes that it was the owner’s great-grandpa’s recipe and he had to travel to Sicily to get it. Uhhh, yes please! To start, though, we went New Mexican, pairing the green chile stew with a Greenie Peak Wheat from Red River Brewing & Distillery, located just down the street. The stew was spicy and delicious, with chunks of pork and potato, and the beer was light in color but deep in flavor, with a bounce of fruitiness drawn out by the slice of orange squeezed into it. The lasagna arrived so quickly I didn’t have a chance to finish the beer and order wine from their small list, featuring a handful of Italian wines as well as offerings from the two wineries we’d just visited, but the lasagna lived up to its reputation: It had lots of gooey cheese and the sauce was tangy with a wonderful mix of herbs and spices.

Self-restraint was required to push the dish away in order to save room for one of their fabulous desserts. We opted to share the tiramisu. Rich and boozy, it had the traditional dark chocolate and coffee notes, with distinct cream-filled layers and a solid alcoholic kick. The casual atmosphere at Capo’s exudes Red River’s old-timey feel, and we had the fortune to be seated in the most coveted seat in the house, the table closest to the doors leading to the deck that overlooks the river, with a view right up the ski valley chairlift.

Hotel Ryland, where we stayed, is rustic charm meets modern comfort. The building’s wooden accents and exterior may match the feel of the rest of town, but once inside, it was a totally different story. Our king suite was well appointed, with a bedroom and a sitting room, a decent-sized fridge, TVs in both rooms, and a spacious bathroom filled with thoughtful amenities to enhance our stay. The owners welcomed us personally and were extremely helpful, offering advice on pretty much anything Red River. They have a lovely grassy area with a firepit and games available for guests, but the real treat is the covered balcony overlooking Main Street. A bank of comfy chairs and tables line the length of the balcony, making it the best spot in town for people-watching with a glass of wine in hand. This experience was one of the highlights of the trip. We relaxed into the luxury of a date night as the sun set and the town lights started to glow.

The next morning, needing coffee and a stout breakfast, we headed down Main Street to Old Tymers Cafe, a diner with a strong motorcycle theme. With hard rock blaring from the speakers and energetic, smiling staff, it felt like a party from the moment we stepped inside. Packed rooms full of satisfied, happy faces held the promise that we’d picked correctly. Both the giant pancakes and New Mexico–style eggs Benedict were calling me, but I decided to go with our server’s favorite, the breakfast enchiladas with green chile (cheese enchiladas with eggs, hash browns, and pinto beans with your choice of chile). My husband had a breakfast burrito with chorizo, Christmas. This order is the standard for him and how he assesses if the place passes; it did! My dish was smothered in a simple-looking green chile that was delightfully spicy and flavorful. A spoonful of pico de gallo on top of the pinto beans was the finishing touch. 

After breakfast, we took the chairlift up to ten thousand feet. The twenty-minute ride gently rocked us through the treetops. At the summit, Ski Tip Restaurant & Deck allows you to enjoy the beautiful view with a nice cold seltzer, beer, or glass of local wine. The ski valley makes the most out of the offseason, offering hiking trails, biking, and multiple zip lines, among other activities. The scenery is stunning and the ride down provides an amazing view of the valley.

With their Disneyland-like Wild West buildings and majestic mountain surroundings, each place seems to beckon—especially Red River Brewing’s epic patio. The best part is that this isn’t Disneyland-fake entertainment; each place has a story, giving you a genuine peek into the past.

We returned home pleasantly surprised by how wonderful the little town from our childhood had grown. Memories of the Red River Fourth of July parade and festivals in the park filled my youth. Why had I not been back in so long?